Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
